Foiled by a Frame


During a trip to LA this weekend, I went to the Getty Museum. Like most people who go to the Getty, I used it as an opportunity to re-think and re-invigorate the way I’d like to decorate and construct desserts.

I originally conceived of the idea with a modern art museum in mind, given the often abstract designs that desserts are presented in, but I try not to pass up chances to go to one of the most beautiful spots in LA. The white marble buildings and gardens of the Getty form a sort of campus that overlooks LA and the Pacific.

So, my problem with many desserts is unnecessary adornment that is either impractical or trite. The star tip used in piping icing epitomizes this for me. It’s the standard decoration for a cake that looks silly without being especially charming. Because so much frosting is used to create designs, it’s usually a mediocre frosting, and to make the situation worse, the increased surface area of the ridged icing means that more will be dried out. So much of this stuff is scraped aside by cake eaters.

And on the other hand, desserts presented with random splotches of color or lines also make me question their relevance to the situation at hand.

I think that dessert design should, of course, be fun (that’s what desserts are all about), but also use a bit of form and function logic. Rather than relying on worn out designs, it’s more interesting for the pasty chef to adapt the design for the individual dessert and its intended effect, like a Frank Lloyd Wright or Maury Rubin approach.

I thought about what is necessary and what is beautiful as I looked at the Getty’s collection of 1700-1800’s French and Italian paintings. Classical works, in which everything had a purpose. A portrait would have a person in an appropriate space with relevant personal objects. A scene from a story would have the characters and details of the action. Great. That makes sense. No anachronistic splotches of color or squiggly lines….

until I noticed something as my eyes drifted from one painting to another….

45

Oh my god.

3

So… It turns out that even paintings have their form of star tip absurdity. I guess humans like to frame artistic creations with bold lines. Like a frame is needed to hold a painting, an icing border is used to cover the corners and layers of a cake. Fair enough. But why not explore a larger variety of designs? That’s all I’m asking.

In other news, I liked applying the ideas of using color on the entire canvas and creating perspective on flat surfaces. That can be worked into desserts. The decorative arts wing also offered new ideas on the depths and colors and designs that make up a whole three dimensional piece of art.

Anyway, it was a fun new way to go through a museum, and I think I will also try a modern art museum…. There are, after all, way fewer frames there.

4 Responses to “Foiled by a Frame”

  1. FattyPR Says:

    Hey Nina,

    The comparison of ostentatious frameing to the overdoing icing was brilliant! I esp like the presentation here. Well done. Best of luck in your pursuit of the perfect look for your desserts.

  2. Nina Says:

    Thanks :) At some point during the class, we’re going to have to learn how to decorate such things, but I wish that the Chef Instructors would buy my ideological opposition and just let me skip it. I’ll probably have to resort to sabatoging it from within instead.

  3. Sweet Napa » Blog Archive » The Ferry Building and Fisherman’s Wharf - San Francisco Says:

    [...] I liked Miette a lot, and even approve of their aesthetic–elegant and casual, and nothing annoying like a star tip in sight. [...]

  4. Sweet Napa » Blog Archive » Shortening… Shortening Everywhere Says:

    [...] I’m a bit uneasy about this block. Although I usually love tasty cakes, there is one huge element of some cakes that I don’t like: piped frosting. I just don’t like the way it looks.  I’ve already written my tirade against the star tip, so I won’t repeat it here except to express my concern. Because, not only do I have to aid and abet the piping, I have to do it a lot and try to perfect something that, in my mind, can’t be perfected: it will always be a star tip, or a plain tip, or a flower made of frosting. Many people might not see what the big deal is here–it’s just a cake, so deal with the frosting, it’s cute–but to me, my desserts are expressions of how I think dessert should be enjoyed, and I regret wasting that on empty appearances that conflict with what I consider appealing. It also takes time away from exploring more minimalist and unique designs. Of course, inspiration for a better alternative can come from mundane sources and technique is technique blah blah blah, so for every single rosette that I pipe, all I can do is internally chant, “Good will come of this… Good will come of this… Good. will. come. of. this.” We will have a Contemporary Cakes block later on in the program, so eventually, we’ll break loose. Anyway, this block is a little different from the others so far because, instead of 1 practical at the end of 13 days of class, we will have 2 practicals, one for each of the two 6-day segments. One practical will be for the Filled Cakes and Tortes, and one will be for Unfilled Cakes and Tarts. Coming up, our cakes include Black Forest Cake, St Honore with Chibouste Cream, Vanilla Charlotte, Raspberry Yogurt Cake, Chocolate Cognac Cake, Chocolate Raspberry Cake, Chocolate Grand Marnier Cake, Chocolate Shingle Torte… Yes, I approve of all the chocolate… Then Frangipane Tarts, Tarte Tatin, Lemon Semolina Cake, Basque Cake, Torta Ricotta, Cheesecake, Flourless Carrot Cake… So, some warhorses steeped in technique, but also some interesting spins. [...]

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