Individual & Production Pastries Wrap Up


For this half block, we made pastries that were 2-3 the size of mignardise, but they were pretty similar to make, with the same attention to detail and delicacy for each.  Usually, though, these have more moisture, so they’ll only last 1-2 days, while mignardise can last up to a week.

Pastries

Clockwise, White Chocolate Mousse Barquettes, Chocolate Meringues, French Tartlettes, Cashew Dacquoise.

I liked the White Chocolate Mousse Barquettes for their bold shape, which has an uncanny resemblance to a penguin for me, and they were as unwieldy to make as their shape suggests. A short dough is mold and baked in a small mold, and then filled with a white chocolate mousse to the top of the crust. Then, whipped cream is piled on top, and you run a small offset spatula at a severe angle on both sides to get that V-shape on top. Then, you’re supposed to dip one side into chocolate so that it doesn’t go on the crust at all. The neutral taste of this one doesn’t live up to the method, but one group made a passionfruit one that was great, and I think that this design has possibilities — I think that even just a fruit compote in the middle instead of the white choc mousse would be an improvement.

I used to love the way that meringue cookies sweetly dissolved on my tongue, but nowadays, straight up meringue is too hard and sweet for me. So the Chocolate Meringues — with two huge hard meringues — were a bit too much, and I think unwieldy to eat. If anything, they should be open-faced, the meringues should be partially baked so they’re creamy inside, or they should be the size of, say, mini-ritz crackers.

The French Tartlettes are very nice — they have a cooked, small dice dried fruit filling kicked up with brandy and lemon, and a streusel topping; they’d be perfect around the holidays. They only tricky thing is that they are fully baked in their metal molds, so it’s impossible to really know when the crust is really done on the bottom when they’re in the oven; they can be a bit dark on the sides and golden on top, but not necessarily golden on the bottom. We just used the suggested 18-19 minutes as our guide.

I like that the Cashew Dacquoise uses my favorite nut, but they were rolled in broken up hazelnuts at the end; if I’d had more time, I’d have toasted and ground up cashews to use instead. They have two cashew dacquoise discs surrounded by a coffee extract flavored whipped cream. The cream was at the edge of fine (whipping-wise) in the bowl, but once it was spread, it looked pretty curdled; the French tip used to pipe the rosette on top only made it worse. At least it still tastes fine. They are supposed to be dusted with cocoa through a polka dot mold, but that overall effect was too jester-style for me, so I just did did the more sedate half circle design, with a long ruler balanced over a line of pastries in the sheet pan as I sifted cocoa powder over.

Napoleon

A Caramelized Apple & Calvados Diplomat Cream Napoleon. This was great — creamy and crispy and fruity and and cinnamon-y. Diplomat Cream is made by incorporating gelatin and whipped cream into pastry cream (similarly, Bavarian Cream is made by incorporating gelatin and whipped cream into creme anglaise). Mine was nicely loose and luscious, and it was fun to eat this as it fell apart into something a delicious mess.

We made Quick Puff Pastry (aka Blitz Puff Pastry, aka Puff the Magic Pastry) for this, which has become something that seems convenient to just throw together. Unlike the traditional Puff Pastry method, in which a butterblock is rolled between dough, and then rolled out and folded numerous times over many hours, the Quick Puff is made at first more like a pie dough — butter is cubed and mixed with flour and salt before water is added to almost hold it together. Its raggedly self is then turned out onto a table, rolled to 1/2″, and then then folded into thirds twice about every 20 mins; by the end, it’s a smooth dough. Of course, at school, this is easy to do on the work tables; at home, perhaps more of a mess. But it tastes soooo much better than that frozen stuff they sell in supermarkets. And with Plugra butter, it’s even better.

Othello

Othello (left) and Coffee Bean (right). These are both filled with flavored with pastry cream and topped with flavored fondant. The dough is made with a separation foaming method (like ladyfingers) so it’s quite dry but very sweet from the topping and filling.

Roulade

Chocolate Roulade with Vanilla Buttercream (top) and Lemon Roulade with Lemon Buttercream (bottom). What was cool about these was that they were glazed with melted buttercream; which is a lot faster and easier than spreading it with a spatula. We used Italian Meringue Buttercream for this, which is a bit too solid butter-y for me, but the lemon curd helped the brighten the flavor and loosen the buttercream a bit. Also, the chocolate roulade was made with a Flourless Chocolate Sponge, so it was gluten-free; it has egg whites, yolks, sugar, and cocoa powder. It’s very susceptible to over-mixing, though, so it could turn out chewy.

Torte

Chocolate Coconut Torte. We made the thin Jaconde Sponge the day before, which had ground blanched almonds in it and we used a thick chocolate tuile cookie batter for the design part. I just did random Jackson Pollock work, but one very cool one had stripes in the sponge and then the chocolate on top was piped into a spiral so that it sprung down when placed on the rosette. This was filled with chocolate mousse and then coconut mousse and then a coconut mirror glaze (just a gelatin coating flavored with Monin syrup); they were each assembled in a piece of PVC pipe and each component had to set before the next was added. And yes, we had to temper chocolate for the top garnish.

We also made regular Napoleons, which I’ll get to in my Practical post.

6 Responses to “Individual & Production Pastries Wrap Up”

  1. sam Says:

    I have a weakness for the napolean type desserts. Do you have a recipe for puff the magic pastry? Sure does sound interesting to me.

  2. Nina Says:

    Hi Sam,
    Sure, I’ll write a post with the recipe, probably tomorrow night. Also, let me know if you want a pastry cream recipe, or even the recipes for the calvados pastry cream, caramelized apples, and calvados diplomat cream that we used for the napoleon above.

    We used fondant and melted chocolate, feathered with a skewer, to top our napoleons, but since fondant is hard to find in stores, powdered sugar would be good, too, or even an open faced napoleon topped with berries.

  3. Jay Says:

    yes to all the extra offered recipes - I’ve tried 4 or 5 different pastry cream recipes without ever being completely happy. and the calvados diplomat cream sounds fabu…

  4. Nina Says:

    Jay - Done. :)

  5. sam Says:

    thank you for therecipes.
    Are you saying you use manafactured fondant in class and dont make it yourselves?
    I love the findant on a custard slice (how I call a napoleon) but it tastes a little more something than simply icing sugar and water me.

  6. Nina Says:

    Sam - We use a poured fondant from a big blue tub from Village Imports that’s labeled as “White Icing.” Its ingredients are sugar, glucose syrup, and water. We heat it to btw 100-110, thinning it a little with simple syrup.

    I agree that fondant is a pretty essential part of this pastry (and a lot of other pastries), and I don’t know why it’s not more widely available in retail. One chef told us that it’s a real pain to make yourself, but I found a couple recipes online that use sugar (or conf sugar), corn syrup, and water….

    This one involves heating it to the soft ball stage and probably produces something close to what we use
    http://www.ochef.com/744.htm

    This one just gently heats up the ingredients and might be acceptable in a pinch (personally I don’t think the clear vanilla flavoring called for is necessary)
    http://www.baking911.com/recipes/cakes/fondant_poured.htm

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