You can now purchase my handmade candy bars and marshmallows at http://www.bonbonbar.com/
I don’t think that my experience with The French Laundry could be called anything other than an adventure. From the day 4 months ago when I conceived of the idea of taking my boyfriend there for his birthday to making the reservation 2 months ago to the 1am cab ride back to my apartment early Saturday morning, there was anticipation, strategy, pleasure, surprise, and even some degree of challenge.

And it was worth it. We loved our meal. The food and the experience exceeded our high expectations. I’ve been thinking about the food since I left (sometimes just one course, or sometimes one course leads to another), and will for quite a while.

The food is modern, with a strong classic French style that’s tinged with an American sensibility. Unlike what I’ve heard about, say, El Bulli and The Fat Duck, the French Laundry doesn’t go to pyrotechnic or molecular lengths for its guests; of course, I’d love to go to those restaurants, but The French Laundry just has a different style. I think the key to its cuisine is using classic techniques and combinations to create new dishes that are exciting for their taste and form, and yet retain a degree of familiarity. During the meal, my most frequent thought was “This is how (blank) should taste,” as if the offerings were Platonic Forms. Looking through The French Laundry cookbook in the months before, I was struck by such a profusion of dishes that are versions of classics, like “coffee and doughnuts,” “caesar salad,” “soup and sandwich, “liver and onions,” and “surf and turf.” Of course, its “surf and turf” is Sauteed Monkfish Tail with Braised Oxtails, Salsify, and Cepes, so rest assured, the air is filled with innovation. There are many completely original dishes, as well.

Oddly enough, though, there was no wine pairing to go with the menu. I was prepared to go all out for this because I reasoned that the cost of it would be the equivalent, or less, of a wine pairing class and I’d learn quite a bit, but no go. Instead, there are many wines offered by the glass (at least $20 each, if I remember correctly) and half-bottle that can be served every course or however often you want, and you can discuss your preferences with your server. On the one hand, that’s cool that you take part in your own wine pairing menu and our wonderful server gave fantastic suggestions, but on the other hand, I wouldn’t have minded just being in their care for that. On a pragmatic third hand, our cost for wine ended up being exactly half that of what I projected to be the cost of two wine pairings, so it did also save money.

By the way, Chad and I almost didn’t make it to The French Laundry that night. My stomach staged a vicious revolt that morning and I hadn’t eaten all day (the second part being a good thing, since the portions may look small but are actually quite substantial once you get into them), and Chad missed his flight to Oakland that afternoon (but managed to fly into SFO 2.25 hours later). By the time we had to leave my apartment, we were so ready for food and alcohol that we called for a taxi so that we wouldn’t have to worry about drinking. Both ways, the drivers from Napa Valley Cab were very friendly; it’s about $25 one way from Napa to Yountville.

So, here’s the French Laundry story. It’s long… You may feel like you’ve gone through the whole French Laundry experience yourself by the end (woohoo, for free). The whole dinner, including a tour of the kitchen, lasted about 3.5 hrs…

We got there exactly at 9pm for our table, but we waited 20 mins for our table. We were offered beverages, but we just perused the wine and food menus and admired the soothing foyer that curiously resembled a spa foyer to me.

We were eventually seated at a table on the second floor, in an intimate room with only one table for four and two tables for two.

Gruyere Gougeres. The gooey cheese center and the light, airy choux pastry were a perfect accompaniment to settling in and relaxing into the restaurant after such a crazy day. I believe that before the gougeres, we spoke in slightly-dazed whispers, but afterwards, we found our voices again.

I think that I first heard about Thomas Keller from an article that talked about these gougeres, but I’d always imagined them as walnut-sized, instead of their marble-sized true selves. This set one theme for the night: I may have had some idea about what the French Laundry was about, but everything was slightly different in an interesting way.

Cornets: Salmon Tartare with Sweet Red Onion Creme Fraiche. Keller got the idea for these cornets at a Baskin-Robbins, and they’re just so much fun; even the napkins are folded just right. At first, I was concerned that all the salmon was on top, and that eating through the creme fraiche-filled cornet would become monotonous, but the salmon flavors lingers enough as you eat the cornet to flavor the whole thing. Then the biggest surprise of all were the black sesame seeds in the cornet that provided a long finish for this amuse.

Now I wish that I’d gotten a better picture of the stand designed by Keller that they bring them out on; this article says it costs $250.

Oysters and Pearls: Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Beau Soleil Oysters and Russian Sevruga Caviar. When I saw pictures of this before, it always looked like the size of a soup bowl, so I surprised that this serving is about the diameter of a tea cup… but that makes sense, because it is so rich and intense. In fact, it was served with an elegant cloche on top, which added just a perfect little suspense and awe until it was whisked off.

This is a perfect dish, so sensuous - every element is so smooth in its own unique way, and full of flavor from the sea; the cookbook says that oyster juice is in the sabayon and sauce. Malpeque oysters and osetra caviar have also been used in the past.

I had a Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Blanc de Blanc NV with this, and Chad kept it local with a Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc NV.

Roll and Butters. Although not technically a course, I think that this deserves its own special mention b/c of that butter on the left, which apparently comes from four cows in Vermont. This is how butter should taste; the ultimate of smooth and butter flavor. Incidentally, it’s salted. On the right is a butter from Marin Country, I believe from Straus, which was good, but it’s hard to beat those four cows in Vermont.

The roll was good, but I was expecting it to be better. It is, after all, baked with a pat of butter into it. It was soft and sinewy like a good dinner roll, but was just good. It would have been very good if it had been warm.

Fricassee of Hand-Rolled Gnocchi: San Marzano Tomato Marmelade, Wild Arugula Leaves and Blossoms with Shaved Bottarga di Muggine. The gnocchi were so light and luscious, and the shaved mullet roe was amazing with the tomato marmelade; salty and acid-y and kinetic, with the gnocchi almost as a soft backdrop. The Bottarga di Muggine was shaved over the dish at the table like a truffle.

We then got a Kofererhof Kerner 2004 Riesling, which was a dry, mineral-ish riesling, nothing like the sweet kinds.

Salad of Sacramento Delta Green Asparagus: Pickled Ramp Bulbs, Garden Mache and Sauce Gribiche (a sauce, I believe, of mustard, eggs, cornichons, capers, and the like). Chad got this and loved it.

Sauteed Fillet of Pacific Kahala: Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm, French Laundry Garden Radish and Young Ginger Gastrique. Kahala is a rather dense white fish, and I liked the fresh hearts of palm — which were not at all like the water-y, metallic kind from a can. I also liked the simple radishes as an accompaniment.

The other choice for this course was Boudin of Lake Erie Walleye Pike: Cream of Arrowleaf Spinach au Gratin, Sunchokes, Toasted Almonds, and Preserved Meyer Lemon.

Our second roll serving: I got the pretzel and ciabatta. Chad went for the mini-baguette and pretzel.

Maine Lobster Tail Cuite Sous Vide: Roasted Hearts of Romaine Lettuce, English Peas, Applewood Smoked Bacon, and Black Truffle Emulsion. Amazing. Read the description of this dish slowly five times, and just imagine the taste. Perfect. And surprisingly, the roasted hearts of Romaine Lettuce were showstopping; deep and rich, somehow, while still retaining its Romaine-ness.

Chad got an HDV Chardonnay, Carneros, 2003 with this.

Jambonette of Devil’s Gulch Ranch Rabbit: Melted Jacobsen’s Farm Swiss Chard, Yukon Gold Potato Puree and Blis Maple Syrup. Ok, the swiss chard was over-salted, but everything else was great, including the micro chervil from their garden. I wish I remembered how they prepared the rabbit exactly, but it involved confit, and it was just so moist and flavorful, with a boost of herbs, with a perfectly crispy fried exterior. The little bone thrust into it was cute, but the more I thought about it, the more I thought about the rabbit that was in this and the cook who hacked away to get these perfect splinters of bone; then again, that’s the world of any food prep. The puree was so smooth and perfect; and the blis maple syrup a stroke of genius.

I started to feel a little full at this point. I remember working with the cracked open jambonette for a while, trying to pace myself.

The other choice for this course, with a $30 supplement, was Moulard Duck Foie Gras Poele: Slow-Baked Royal Blenheim Apricot, Belgian Endive, and Green Peppercorn Jus.

Snake River Farm Calotte de Boeuf Grillee: Globe Artichoke, California Cepe Mushrooms, Cipollini Onions and Sauce a la Barigoule. A wonderful earthy dish, with just a touch of seasoning on the beef for add’l sparks of flavor. It was so tender and juicy and full of flavor, and the light vegetables that went with it were a wise choice.

I was very full at this point, but it was so good. I applied myself to the challenge, and I. ate. it. all.

We had a 2003 Vall Lach Embriux Priorat with this, which had a subtle, succulent raspberry start for me that went into blackberries and then a smooth finish.

Ossau Vieille: Marinated Savoy Cabbage, Sweet Carrot Emincee, Caraway. It’s too bad this course was served after my stomach rebelled; at any other time, I would have curled my arm around the plate and gone gluttonously to work on this sheep’s milk cheese and garnishes. As it was, I ate one bite. A glorious, pungent bite.

I do question the use of such a strong cheese course here. After such an onslaught of dishes, I might have been able to handle a subtler, more comforting course; instead it was like a taunting poke to a full stomach.

Armando Manni Extra-Virgin Olive Oil Sorbet: Cornmeal Financier and Coulis de Framboise. We loved the olive oil sorbet (which is made with egg yolks), which the pastry chef later told us gets mixed reactions. It was so creamy and with just the right olive oil flavor, and the cornmeal and raspberry coulis were genius accompaniments. I ate most of it, no matter the consequences. After all, it was rather comforting.

Coffee and Donuts: Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts. This is a classic French Laundry dessert, and was amazing. A fresh, hot donut with a cold semifreddo lying beneath hot milk foam. I love different temperatures in one dish. And the cappuccino flavor is so deep and good; the cookbook says it’s made with espresso extract… who knew. I also like how the hole is served with the circular donut, and who knew that TFL makes one of the best donuts in the world. I ate the whole donut, but couldn’t finish all the semifreddo.

Malt Teaser: Valhrona Jivara Chocolate Malt Creme Bavarois, Candied Cocoa Nibs, Baked Meringues, and Malt Ice Cream. Finally, I met a Bavarian cream that I like. A lot. The flavor, and the simple, yet elegant shape, as well as the aesthetics of the entire dish. Again, the title of this says it all. Each element perfect on its own, and all together. I, however, could only eat a fourth of it, but I think about it. Often.

And so began an onsalught of fabulous mignardise and extra treats. Phyllo Dough Butterflies.

Chocolate Caramel Macadamia Nuts.

This involved Passionfruit and Cassis (I think) and was given to Chad, but I can’t remember the details.

Creme Brulee.

Chocolates.

Chocolate Box designed by Keller with Pistachio Fudge, Mints, and more Chocolates.

Shortbread Cookies to take home. Our hospitable server also wrapped up the treats above. I’m trying not to hoard them too much.

We were alone in the dining room at this point, so I took pic’s. Here are their lamps. Those symbols on the lamps? Laundry symbols.

The table next to us.
We were invited to tour the kitchen, where we met the fabulous people who prepared our food, including the talented chef de cuisine, Corey Lee. Thomas Keller was not there, though we were shown a little booth adjacent to the kitchen where he oversees things when he is there (one article I read mentioned that he is switching over from being a team player to the coach… esp since he has so many projects going on). They were sharing a bottle of wine as they went over the meu for the next day. We saw the plasma TV that shows the goings on at Per Se; here’s an article about that feature. It was 1am at that point, and so 4am in New York… and there someone was on the screen, scrubbing away in that sister immaculate kitchen. And Chad noticed a sign with the definition of “Finesse” over TFL kitchen threshold on our way out.

So, we called a cab and waited outside, the last guests to leave the restaurant. An employee came out to go home and seeing us, asked us about how we were getting home… and he actually offered us a ride. We demurred, since we didn’t want to abandon the taxi that was on its way, but … wow… that’s a commitment service.

Additional Notes:

• The French Laundry is one of the few restaurants that sticks to its Jacket Required policy. I felt bad that Chad had to invest in one to enjoy his birthday present, but… well… I’d never seen him in a suit before, and I rather liked it on him.
• The servers are very down to earth and friendly, but if you’re serious about food, I think it’s best to make that apparent to them early on by asking questions and maybe sharing your background (for instance, my going to culinary school for baking and pastry). Perhaps they don’t want to be intrusive, but I found that we didn’t have very personalized service so much until we made the moves towards wanting to know more.
• When I confirmed on their voicemail system 3 days ahead, I stressed that it was my boyfriend’s birthday. Nothing was done about this, though; and I didn’t feel acting like I was 15 and “going to the bathroom” so that I could trail the waiter to let him know about the birthday or simply announcing the fact of the day of his birth at the table. I’d thought that the voicemail msg would be enough.
• Oddly enough, too, when they announced that our table was ready, they addressed my boyfriend, Chad, as “Mr. (my last name that the reservation was under),” which was weird, and the wine list was given de facto to him at the table.
• Although we talked a lot about The French Laundry when we were at Cyrus, I have to admit that we didn’t talk about Cyrus at the French Laundry. BUT, the next time I crave The French Laundry and I don’t have scads of money at my disposal, I might just plan to go to Cyrus instead; and frankly, you could probably only go to the French Laundry and really appreciate it, at the most, once every few months, but Cyrus, especially given their flexible menu, could be gone to more often. I also have to admit, though, that part of the fun of being at the French Laundry is the cachet and event of it. If the French Laundry and Cyrus had equal worldwide renown and cost (and back in the day, TFL cost much less than $210/person; in 1994, it was $49/person according to this article), I’d give the edge to TFL b/c I think that the food was just a bit more amazing, but Cyrus is still wonderful, and I’d love to see what they would do with their food if they charged $210/person; it would be a totally different comparison then.
• The people who would benefit from this tidbit won’t need it: I believe that VIP’ed guests are given about double the number of courses. Given that my stomach only just made it through the 6th course, I was ok to live without it… I guess.
• For those of you into numbers: 24 photos are in this post.
• When you arrive, your napkin is tucked into a clothes pin that says The French Laundry. You get to keep it.

This entry was posted on Wednesday, June 14th, 2006 at 7:38 pm and is filed under Highly Recommended, Napa Valley, Restaurants. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.