Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen Revisited (At Least Twice) - St. Helena


I’ve been to Cindy’s a few times since I last wrote about it, and it’s become my standby for a good meal — and good drinks — in the Napa valley. When I think about how the dishes are so full of fresh ingredients that are combined in interesting ways and priced in a reasonable fashion… and how they’re served in such a casually elegant and friendly setting… and how the attention to detail that pervades the restaurant is comforting rather than stifling… I wonder why we ever do go anywhere else.

Most of these pictures are from a couple weeks ago, but I have a few pictures from a visit in May. I don’t see the harm in including them, too.

By the way, Cindy Pawlcyn has recently come out with a new book called Big Small Plates, which I can’t wait to get my hands on, especially since that’s the kind of food that I most like to eat.

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Rabbit Tostada with Red Chile Salsa, Black Beans, and Feta. It’s relatively hard to find rabbit on menus, and it’s even harder to find good rabbit on plates. But CBK has a way with rabbit, and especially for a first visit, I’d recommend getting this as an indicator of just what CBK is all about. The ingredients tie together so well, and although the serving is large, it’s the juicy, sweet yet earthy rabbit that retains the spotlight, while so many textures and flavors come in and out of focus around it. Some people might think that rabbit tastes like chicken, but it shouldn’t. CBK brings out the rabbit in rabbit.

2

Chilled Grape and Almond Gazpacho. This was thickened with cream cheese and yogurt.

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Laura Chenel Goat Cheese Ravioli, Scallions, Gaeta Olive Sauce, & Parmesan. *from May* This could be a little neater, proportion-wise. That’s a lot of olive to get through to get at everything else, but if you love olives, great.

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House Greens with Cindy’s Spiced Pecans & French Butter Pears. *from May*

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Salad with Smoked Trout and Grapefruit. *from May*

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Meatloaf with Horseradish Barbecue Sauce and Garlic Mashed Potatoes. Usually, Chad waits patiently for me to take my picture, but notice that fork poised in the background.

Opinions on meatloaf usually reflect childhood experiences, and the meatloaf of my youth were more of the onion-y/gravy variety. So, this sweet and spicy BBQ sauce heavy version was quite a change, and we liked it a lot; me, more for the perky novelty.

4

Rabbit Linguine with English Peas and Mix of Heirloom Tomatoes. That rabbit again, this time backed up by just assertive enough tomatoes, herbs, and peas. I also like that that, even after I’d finished all of the pieces of rabbit, the plate still held its integrity of flavors. This is the first pasta dish that I’ve finished in a long time.

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Braised Lamb Shank. *from May* The meat just fell right off the bone.

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Campfire Pie. I’ve already written about this, so let’s just say — there’s Chad’s fork again…

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Chocolate Mousse Mocha Tart with Crispy Chocolate Hazelnut, and Whipped Cream. *from May*

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Meyer Lemon Creme Brulee. *from May and still out of focus* There was a top layer of meyer lemon curd in this (under the brulee), and it worked very well.

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A Sidecar Named Desire with Belle de Brillet Pear Cognac Liqueur, Cointreau, & Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice. This tasted a lot like a Lemon Drop that eased into orange and then pear flavors…. which is a lot more interesting and less sweet than a normal Lemon Drop.

I forgot to take a photo of my Razmo with Hangar One Raspberry Vodka, Aqua Perfecta Raspberry Liqueur, & Fresh Squeezed Lime Juice. I liked the pure raspberry and alchohol flavor of it, that wasn’t too sweet.

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Chad got the Pineapple Mai Tai with Charbay Tahitian Vanilla Rum, Fresh Squeezed Pineapple Juice, and a Meyer’s Dark Float.

I also forgot to take a picture of his Dark & Stormy, with Gosling’s Black Rum & Cock and Bull ginger beer. This was the first drink we ever had at Cindy’s, and I like how it’s only two ingredients, and yet, somehow, it’s more complex than many drinks with, say, four.

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For added entertainment during the meal, we looked through this. It’s laid out a lot like a scrapbook, which is all the more impressive because there were many copies of it and was filled with non-copied material like this…

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4 Responses to “Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen Revisited (At Least Twice) - St. Helena”

  1. Sweet Napa » Blog Archive » BarBersQ - Napa Says:

    [...] That unctuous pile of pulled pork… coleslaw… and barbecue sauce… in a soft bun… sums it all up. BarbersQ offers traditional BBQ with a bit of flourish and a whole lot of flavor. The space is warm and inviting. I get similar feelings at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen and Ad Hoc. It’s less fancy than those two (and cheaper, esp than the latter), but it has that same clean sort of hospitality that makes me feel good just sitting at one of their tables, awaiting delicious dishes. BarBersQ is relatively new, but if I still lived in Napa, something tells me that I would know the menu very well by now. I used to live down the street from it. I probably would have walked there and back to feel good about burning off some of the calories and saving gas money that could go to, say, a side of cheese-strong macaroni and cheese instead. [...]

  2. Jenni Says:

    Hey, I just wanted to say thanks for mentioning Charbay on your blog! We appreciate your support of the food & wine & distilled spirits community :-) Keep us in your thoughts when you are planning your next trip - we’d love to meet you in person…

  3. Jenni Says:

    OH! Almost forgot contact info:

    Jenni Olson
    CA Sales Director
    Charbay Winery & Distillery
    Napa Valley, CA
    707-963-9327 x 19
    jenni@charbay.com

    Liquid smiles…

  4. Nina Says:

    Thanks, Jenni! I definitely will — the Charbay was fantastic!

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